伊比利亚大纪行（16）直布罗陀海峡和隆达
由格拉纳达坐火车继续往南，深入安达卢西亚腹地，所见之处又是一片片原生态的荒凉。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2pm8IAVxO4PH85odrtSog3EirDLvAYDnYPdLeZf08BpsaEQNeVuEhDTeZaCwdUJkqlo2B9DIt6N89gzjmpav2Tj-p0m1P4GC1C490iWwfF1sMa8CKRtEbkF1HCdejLntSr/P1050799.JPG?psid=1 这一次的目的地是Algeciras西班牙最南部的火车站，目的是去摸一摸神秘的非洲大陆的触角。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2pHSuyJhTKZkLay53wz6P1djA9KDA-QEz_xzou0BVpBXTTkhgGBAzyHgd9gR4HZxIGgJlMRtZGKY2N2TEj7UtA2EArl8r0XC3pMnB3M1wyod1Dt2oyZJhN1c6olcq6aPzg/P1050800.JPG?psid=1 铁路只能修到这里，再往西去，无论是直布罗陀还是Tarifa都只能坐汽车。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2pXv7aeoj5noQ3k0sr7isQbsdG_gFpRWwVUEfT_3ifMkkznou2uPMsEGat2EVsjys5U_UGOkejxuOMxo3gpdrab5qNAsiOPS01n_BSLM_UAnTvjOP3uDCFkWVsyyTUgRKr/P1050801.JPG?psid=1 公路从一片山地的顶部延伸出去，一面是更高的山崖，另一面是直布罗陀海峡。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2psH6inr3RKsmMTbNkf_9p5jbLZxjUiSyoe6S5RSk_3oDTKCP5GaoemAVh7Ao9ETBh50lj_VGUq913QxrjfrzPWphYqxWneCUy-88_uSC84COJdRlNCap7rlbyg8JeMrrB/P1050804.JPG?psid=1 这一片穷山恶水实在也是没有办法开发。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2pb-ROdwSm6n8V503dKEuamBrqn3XXvRHVsMhg9GOu6yXo02FHm86Ydh4yyiBDGpjp0xcdv3rRvd8EA_Vfe1KstjvgAeHda6RTJ6TMBCUmT67qIt5PrF5MS0HUVvCKoWFL/P1050805.JPG?psid=1 Tarifa是西班牙最南端的小镇，建筑风格有着浓重的北非味道。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2p39SOCSpuv5wuaBbpOcqKO5TE8Kg5kBhAT9zCAIBfnBhXnoRk2TA9FaewlaupB_Wi2QVas0UrhW38FTXMI3BLIUG27xFEirgTEZxtyU1RX3Ux4uxHG2lIkEpZtPl8KWlk/P1050806.JPG?psid=1 沿着这一条长长的深入大海的堤坝走去，看得见模模糊糊的是摩洛哥的山崖。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2pnrljNlP-FHUehISO_GgZngxMgCyDBM6lnBchdyVfuxZG90NBy3dWKx-gTKTF_I97VZH9gBzX6LQZ0UArw96mpgfdg8GYVLrkW6k7lSGjWiB23XiRymArYqi5E_9aoi--/P1050808.JPG?psid=1 这里常年的风力超过8级，所以夏天吸引了无数的冲浪爱好者。但是对于体型较小的东方人来说就要扛住了——我可不是在开玩笑，睁不开眼不说，相机也很难端稳。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2puLfP2g7_G3ugrcCtC39zBqdJ-Bwo3eD-5ukqX2B7XZKbcCVeVJK9BanXEOfvxBAgiJ91wDk1LeZoURysoKs_zzhCSNrOi2z-Kk0OZbkvMGeTyBBB8TuuPUJsl3BCBvmw/P1050809.JPG?psid=1 这里的海水看起来碧绿，实际含沙量很大，我在这里站了两三分钟，一抹脖子全是沙粒。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2pmdL_CiV3lYnV3YRK-DJr4x2lB_zR-6CvkcOHNzXbTWyg2gdj2Rnn65fiCPdQ7irBPQNB2SkwmdYlEvyy_iMjXv950lmHaAO38in3USiwG0UK_LiKnzaaX_xsUxO76SXK/P1050810.JPG?psid=1 为了赶车，还是早点回去吧，汽车站离镇中心还是有点路的。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2pbgNMfR78dgaQpD_Bkzc754viQKKz_zD1uVpKvrwT-_6yLFC3uMEYHlfJABdcmTqxX5GEEf7V-8Lwou0YoBG-KPAG0SdOFQ2-h1Hwf-1CyXN7w6q-vdLOUY0mleTfIXqB/P1050811.JPG?psid=1 这沙滩还不至于完全雪白。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2pXRcNp-ZXILBmQ1j86gOsMZL0OPnEqjjEDq4PgoUBq4Q9kPkZZhqrrXFBTMvBg0oY9SjVhRJrd0hvw_dCRGYc3PrHpSjKovcqMx4qqaHslRmkRBZBmBpdzN4EnTrH3vY9/P1050812.JPG?psid=1 陡壁上孤零零的小城堡。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2p9gGeVsCvwFaOD9rCU44PQAkyc0AsPmD3_mzxrV_x70izxLjhsD88N-S2BoYHHoldjLzwWECcuWEthtAnBUsRAuLcpWGczex25oFBM4KcM25w_VEnIQN820cDw93_5JHi/P1050813.JPG?psid=1 回来的路上又是长长的盘山公路。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2pUeyvoHoEjjAeqAObAeqbgJJy71mpqVeQAnPSAZdHGcsBuh19nSiOv1Qa20xQT-6ibE4JK0YgDUOrM9JemgzurVRXoH4uXG3LoAhJHvNLGqYDE8lRQKnGzmjb5KjmPhR_/P1050814.JPG?psid=1 透过山谷间的空隙，还是可以看见波涛万顷的直布罗陀海峡。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2pYUaWVodve5lEU1id99XI4MeIAqh0qMUXjXvn5QfM-igvZ3ltiP9f6ZEsxOxFsKczFV-CJU9JTiisGaQzZa9tyVNE2Ihj8oMuHfrolfXVPfpHDSFPZaOfX0P58qP4faCX/P1050815.JPG?psid=1 这里还是可以隐约看见人类活动的痕迹。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2pATTaHvkTzZF2FcdCPWntVS_ITwB02rbG6srYUmlptxpeo6Y0jQ7zdKOVBJqkJ-hI4BZeNBtfbr53gg5iolAzNqMNwskwrvV_01fjYQnPIQrSu4ac6s7N7jR96hlhmeMO/P1050817.JPG?psid=1 海边的悬崖，正如好莱坞大片里的镜头。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2p9ijZmkDc2-og5eJ0A7EXylakfIDm_39_8xHu1fvCXhIQnw-NmBcz4khCbbTkIN8GGujBkDB9Gm-GSQB-Zj3IwGEqvNiSnq6pD2s--2w2puhqzNhkIdR1erfnkghskV7o/P1050818.JPG?psid=1 马上又要回到城市了。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2p-SCJJxBtXBqrM10NwWgQiQNrtEdfETznmPbYCkM39BPTgKNYSFfhrXMLyl7szy_KffqHET1ST8QK9jFZ5bUBZ_GGHC-SlYndBKzwgDv3pcZupXrTFk_zsmFzUugnDhuP/P1050822.JPG?psid=1 从Algeciras到隆达Ronda的铁路线是一条观景线。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2p2oH3fnBKPeYVOEU33zsocCcEiLwqY9o_sZAPC58kUltZIz1ikGar90Q9Y4dmU57qLNOezhwZNOoq1r3_BlEp5APIOXrCbqjOto2wLlcX_wlW-youjlIdobjMnsr6lc7O/P1050823.JPG?psid=1 在火车上睡着了，醒来抢下的这些镜头并不是最美丽的部分。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2ptrnMQPYnfpyQsfLtiTfS-0fVAj3xfr5y9VFIowpPz64axk9FCPODfsPxcJcdm5nuQpj0HpdquncbkEqYJxh1bWkjNqa2B4cQZyMw4VrQXaqbmMHmq9xYbFm9hq_wIqnz/P1050824.JPG?psid=1 溪水淙淙地在山间留过。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2p0vuFtbleIfrJYobJCc_4VxZUt20BigSV2Qu3FMJ6zlHjUv20QbQlB_TsYWl7CcOHkaVGmbe76DoaTGG-pKzBP5FZVv9SSq3meSaKW7BtBM6G1NsTzCaTIUoI8j7bAv76/P1050825.JPG?psid=1 海明威在他的小说《死在午后》中写到：“如果你想要去西班牙度蜜月或者跟人私奔的话，隆达是最合适的地方，整个城市目之所及都是浪漫的风景……。”http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2px87EBXhSKHacFMJLIE_EXjAO1bSWQdrHIjcpDVkgAPWqelHJzsyCtylm5hGTBQZC9JmtePR47s13B1eosKLfVDKZIvNf1Ouzbu_bn6QpE9eJo_ruV7Udc4UVrY-1I1Wz/P1050826.JPG?psid=1悬崖上的罗马古城、西班牙斗牛的发源地隆达被人们誉为“建在云端的城市”，“悬崖边的白色小镇”和“全世界最适合私奔的地方”。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2pUAJxenspxU1kFe3jkqLa8q3inEt6xuftDmKgg7wObL4fKEUvu1OxABOvPBHTgAANkaYZnl0H86n2LKGD0LSJTxpba-SjQr8wnmmRORZbzDCJ2N3JpMipaZY6BLW0LsLS/P1050827.JPG?psid=1 斗牛博物馆总是这样圆圆的形状。这里是西班牙最古老的斗牛场，对斗牛士而言具有圣地一般的意义，它见证了历代斗士的爱恨情仇。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2p2xqdQWF7fA2LtWVQ4TaQWdYRqEExedvFkj2kL84tcq2gV0KF-L8Lr-eKgkMGVzpMNIBPCMrxu7oi1VOcMO6r7ptKEnqSINynIicM6dNU6uno5jNS70YxqqEaoKDcOGJx/P1050833.JPG?psid=1
在城市里走着走着，忽然就到了尽头。一百多米高的峡谷切割出一条溪流，把小城一分为二，鸡犬相闻却不能直接往来。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2payo0mKNMCpzqLPSU5LW4Wx0HVEXFBnWoLvwpgyN-ROPm1knJ7PKpYY6YuV2I4aafflWp3jX0AEl6mZ-FyWZhbMM0afaOfqNnONgdzt_K3AbZdHRChsepTbRUSAxng4K4/P1050828.JPG?psid=1 稍稍转一转头，就能看见城市外一望无际的荒野。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2pHZVtKskwwRYF03eNO-CFyGNQU_OJcau57UCzMWk_be9iqeeSWyIDckO0LJMXPz-MRuQQQHINsTuDDd1SjnkRS6_AWdrtXwZtGB5GTqtVH6HQNyIv8V-RJyLb1yXekWNe/P1050829.JPG?psid=1 千百年过去了，城市所在的悬崖上已是郁郁葱葱。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2pTX6UN0rqpaOumDYwtdsfi4rHHWe66qyNrUQEnJSQaQX-60WoWp9qFG2No_ixNWr1l94yKhNfH5IR3aAwxaBYJTFzFoPADLeIuwwUQDtArgUbgH_niWsSB2ZWNsfAof1u/P1050830.JPG?psid=1 更令人惊讶的是峡谷里居然还住着人！。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2plLUtD9_J2kRcGHgjEEuS6CMd9QgC5kNMihjH6VmWRqQMl3ArSKzxZONKg_jL9qU8Dh03J1RYiRCF_b0a5COWFltNAVqQ5oMnXS_sUmyjzIqZFfydqyvE2oQs-Lnuywyq/P1050831.JPG?psid=1 天边是远山。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2p0-8EgMDUOA80oaAqDfPm1U-7NLDUDAkDv9p_UM9iYs_D5JSq0ranWkJUwjZkYuO7CLcBtFudElpa7Yg0x0i9_3-g4X3TSm5GjYARb6XCLT7RGS8v9osKbC3oKhEZ5YQF/P1050832.JPG?psid=1 这个广场通向老桥。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2pX3RxmN6BramY4onermp-DTTAvHIid3mybk7FgNK7zZoO5BIh-ZMqG_4cpZopqKssCCTO56yt7BhUF1T_gHz-hXzkqNIZupsFJLgd_DFXY_t362l1cvtZ0__G0BfeO7KQ/P1050834.JPG?psid=1 建于1735年的山谷大桥—带有浓厚的阿拉伯风情，桥洞的形状像清真寺的圆顶，上面的花纹细密繁琐，远看像织着古兰经的挂毯垂在清真寺的柱子上。它象一个巨人站在裂谷中，将新旧两城连接起来。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2pvCtwNSDA9-NX_RqUSxvcJ1pc5SW8HHuKLSuyR0dqLEv-HH8naay6ZnJz8GIlHz5b7xWmGE0cGg1VzdS4_BLfZZT81U1xVCF-r-FUoGBGoel4up3FlEw_7HavYcHlF-Hi/P1050837.JPG?psid=1 桥边有一座摩尔式庭院。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2pIRO_4C_7nPxKVrgm3cjwmaalvvU2oKPZHdswtpYiRhMSOkRPxdpBnZIvbigJUv56ivh75J1oZDAwvgz25eWl4RRKapaL_s0pFf9JTTylsxrV88NDleR7PdZ938d4-Y56/P1050836.JPG?psid=1 Parador古堡酒店屹立在桥头的悬崖之顶，古堡酒店的前身是隆达市政厅所在地。1761年建成至今历时近300年，酒店本身就充满岁月沧桑。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2pP_8W6yHTu9NT-G8tlAf-fMTheuKaun4JsRiuBDyg2VYwxKMNyOVY3aWYmTRjp_7soYilJTYabufAVD7mD1d4_Q6XFKe7ZefjMeAPx9LupmZDvP1jqPzmTmHlJToe5fPI/P1050839.JPG?psid=1 老城的街道很清静。http://qgqktg.blu.livefilestore.com/y2pqXaPq0BibXEP-3lcndfAxdj6ycevOP1h-kUOEuI45Ls8PcH2xehr3aZNmrKOi6HylF8KxhdBr7rtG2TgpR9EEjS0A8yZSl9ZBd2wN2yDaGBzOGEPQTsB9ZLPs8HgklrY/P1050840.JPG?psid=1
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